Interview: Lauren Davidson and Simon De Graaf, Girl & Graaf

It's my pleasure to introduce you to the world of Lauren Davidson and Simon De Graaf of Sydney based lifestyle boutique Girl and Graaf. I immediately fell in love with their unique edit of homeware and clothing sourced from across the globe. Inspired by their shared passion for travel, cooking and bric-a-brac, Girl and Graaf stock a great range of brands including personal favourites Penelope Chilvers and Poplin Pajamas.  I caught up with Lauren and Simon to discuss extraordinary objects and the pared down Girl and Graaf aesthetic. 

Where are you and what are you doing right now?

I am in my loungeroom, waiting patiently for my slow-cooked dinner to finish cooking…

Tell us about your past jobs. What lead you to your current positions?

I’m a bit of a jack-of-all-trades – I’ve been a ski-instructor, nanny, full-time student, political science intern and yoga teacher and have worked in corporate administration, events, hospitality and retail both here and overseas. It may seem odd that any of these jobs could lead to me where I am now (my parents certainly struggle to keep up!), but I’ve always loved travelling and meeting new people, so running a business that imports gorgeous products from all over the world really is my dream job.

 
Tell us a little bit about the concept for Girl & Graaf.

Our aim at Girl & Graaf is to bring the excitement and romance of travel to everyday life. We try to find distinctive products from around the world and incorporate them seamlessly into the laidback Australian lifestyle.

What makes Girl & Graaf unique?

We’re unique in our deep appreciation of the fact that good things take time – sometimes we wait months for an artist or producer to prepare an order, but it’s always worth it.

What do you look for in the pieces you showcase?

There are many factors that come into play when looking for pieces to showcase. We’re very supportive of traditional techniques and craftsmanship in manufacturing so we try to deal directly with the people producing the pieces. There’s a sense of warmth that comes from owning something authentic and we’re always on the lookout for that quality.

Who is the Girl and Graaf girl?

I like to think of her as well-read and sophisticated; a bit of dreamer with an enquiring mind. She’s definitely someone who values quality over quantity and would wait patiently to find and maybe save up for that perfect piece.

Does your personal style influence what you buy for the shop?

Absolutely. The Girl & Graaf aesthetic is a direct extension of my own personal style (and Simon’s, though he tends not to get too involved in the fashion and jewellery buying!).

What does the typical day at work look like for you?

Is it too clichéd to say there is no typical day for me? I’m involved in every aspect of the business, so I might be packing orders, attending meetings and dropping off samples one day and working on the computer, paying invoices and drawing up budgets the next.

What are your five essentials?

Coffee, fresh air, family, a good white shirt and a decent hair cut.

What are your top three pieces available in the shop right now?

I’m craving relaxed mornings at home, so our Iris Pyjamas by Poplin are number one on the list. I’m smitten with the Spoon and Well from our Rare & Unique Finds collection and can’t go past our Alacati towel for sheer usefulness – bath towel, beach towel, emergency scarf, picnic blanket. I took it along on my last overseas trip and used it as all of the above.

Describe your perfect day.

My perfect day would begin with me waking up feeling (and looking) fresh as a daisy, of course. I’d head to the beach for a coffee and leisurely walk, followed by breakfast at home with Simon. At about 1pm, I’d settle in for a long, lazy lunch by the water. A late afternoon swim and casual dinner with friends would be the perfect ending to my perfect day.

What’s coming up next?

We’re actually in the process of opening a concept store, close to our home in Bondi, Sydney. I’m looking forward to deepening the Girl & Graaf experience by extending it beyond the computer screen – I can’t wait to open the doors and invite our customers to literally step into our world.

To see more of Lauren and Simon's work, visit their website.

Interview: Avenue 32 Part II: Erin Mullaney

In the second part of my interview series with the Avenue 32 girls, I caught up ex-buyer for Browns and Harrods Erin Mullaney to discuss fashion fads and her current Avenue 32 edit.
Enjoy!

Where are you and what are you doing right now? We are in the office checking out NY fashion week on style.com as we missed going due to Snowstorm Nemo! It feels very strange not to be there but at the same time, I think we avoided a disaster and it will be so nice to go into London fashion week rested and not jetlagged and straight off a plane!

Tell us about your past jobs. What lead you to your current position? I have been a buyer for about 10 years now – I started my buying career at Harrods working for Mohamed Al Fayed and then moved to Selfridges when the Weston family took it over, which was an exciting time. I then went on to become the Buying Director of Browns, one of the most iconic boutiques in the world, where I had the great pleasure of working with and learning from the inimitable owner Mrs Burstein. She taught me how to edit and that every single piece must be special. She also taught me never to be lazy – she always has time for new designers and tirelessly seeks out new and exciting product for her customers – this is something I have always been passionate about as well.

What do you look for in the designers you showcase? First and foremost, we have to be excited about the product. If Roberta and I love the product and want to wear it right now, then chances are that designer is going to be a winner. We also look for practical things such as price point, quality is super important and design – is it new and innovative? Is this designer doing something different to all the others? What is their USP (unique selling point)? Who is their customer – does she really exist and where is she going in these designs!? Some designers design for ‘conceptual’ women that don’t really exist…

Who is the Avenue 32 girl? I think we are all the Avenue girl – we always try to think about us and our friends and what they are looking to wear to certain events or to work, etc. Although we try to introduce and support emerging designers on Avenue32, we also want to make sure we are catering to our customer – who is not always a high fashion customer. She has a great career and may spend her disposable income on herself so shopping with us is a ‘treat’, she travels and she is quite independent – she comes to Avenue32 to discover something new, something different that none of her friends will have.

Does your personal style influence what you buy for the shop? Yes and no – I have been a buyer long enough to know that you aren’t buying for yourself 99% of the time. You have to put your customer first.
I think Roberta is our customer though – as is her sister and her mother, so in that way, I do always listen to her opinion but there is also an element of ‘will this sell’ and ‘is this the Avenue woman’?

What is your one piece of fashion or beauty advice? My fashion advice would be: Be true to yourself and don’t follow trends or fads too closely, especially as you get older. I have a uniform when I am not in fashion week and I stick to it pretty closely as I know what works for me now. Beauty advice: look after your skin – sleep, hydrate with water and don’t go in the sun! it will come back to haunt you in your mid 30s…

What does the typical work day look like for you? I love the fact that we don’t have a ‘typical’ day – every day is different. We travel a lot as well for work (4 times a year for market) which helps to break up stints in the office as I always get a bit restless being in an office for long periods of time. Roberta and I have a lot of meetings with our different teams each day – for me, it’s catching up with my buying team, approving and finalizing orders, working on trends, making sure our sales and e-commerce team know what deliveries are coming in, making sure our home page and other communication reflect what’s new, meeting with the marketing team about events and working closely with our PR… every day is busy and totally different, which I love.

What are your 5 essentials?
A great pair of jeans (I am loving my Paige skinnies at the moment)
Perfect white t-shirt (I have about 10 at any one time but James Perse is my favourite)
Chunky knits (by my new favourite designer on Avenue – Cedric Charlier, APC, Acne and COS for high street knits is the best)
Coats/jackets – I am totally obsessed with coats and can’t stop buying them! Current favourites are my Celine grey wool mens coat with leather sleeves, my burberry pea coat in navy blue and my yves salomon army parks with fur hood
Celine bags & shoes – Roberta and I both have a slight addiction!

What are your top three pieces available in the shop right now? FRENDS headphones – the rose gold taylor is our best seller at the moment and everyone in the office is obsessed with them. Cedric Charlier – everything and anything! This new designer is super-hot (he used to be at cacharel and lanvin before starting his own label last year) and his prices are unbeatable – snap up a piece from his pre spring now. Hussein Chalayan’s pre spring collection was to die for – I love this jacket with flouro trim. I can’t wait for our new designer Michaela Buerger’s beautifully handmade crochet t-shirts and collars… coming soon to Avenue32. Get on the waitlist now. Summers must-have.

Any beauty rituals? I am religious about taking my makeup off at the end of the day – especially my mascara. I can’t sleep otherwise. And I have an AMAZING facialist (Roberta and I both go to her actually) called Jacqueline Parker at the SOMA centre (tel: 0207 000 1903) who sorts my skin out once a month with a glycolic peel and Oxygen facial. She has taught me so much about my skin and gives great advice. And my dear friend and incredible hairstylist Bianca Tuovi (with CLM) does my hair colour - I couldn’t live without her!

Describe your perfect day. My perfect day would be a lazy Saturday wandering around Portobello market with my boyfriend, followed by a pub lunch/roast with our friends. I love simple days with no alarms and no plans the most.

What’s coming up next? We are introducing some very exciting new brands to Avenue32 in the next 6 months so watch this space… we will also be doing a lot more offline events and marketing in 2013, including a possible pop up shop.


For more of Erin's work, visit her website.

Interview: Avenue 32 Part I: Roberta Benteler

It's my pleasure to introduce the first of a two part series of interviews with Roberta Benteler and Erin Mullaney of luxury e-commerce website Avenue 32. 

Founded in 2011 by Roberta, Avenue 32 showcases up and coming fashion graduates alongside established industry heroes including Preen, Hussein Chalayan and Zac Posen. The site gives each designer the opportunity to create his or her own online shop, featuring their own imagery and videos, simultaneously creating consumer interaction and giving designers the ability to control their own online presence. I caught up with founder Roberta to discuss the story behind the next Net-A-Porter!

Where are you and what are you doing right now? I am currently in the office. We were meant to be in NYC this week, but unfortunately due to Blizzard Nemo we had to cancel our trip. On the bright side though this means we will be fresh and rested for London Fashion Week, which for me is probably the most exciting one.

Tell us about your past jobs. What lead you to your current position? Originally having worked in finance I decided to take time off to pursue my interest in the fashion industry. In 2010 I worked for a young designer, a key experience which enabled me to see the market from a designer’s point of view. I realised how many of them (young or established) struggle to control the way that their brand is portrayed online and to communicate what their brand is about.  Avenue 32 was born out of the desire to create a platform that caters to and supports customers’ and designers’ needs alike, offering the highest level of service as well as an exciting and fresh brand mix.

Tell us a little bit about the concept for Avenue 32. Avenue 32 is am ecommerce retailer that provides designers with a platform to operate in a multi – brand environment, but where they are able to curate their very own shop in shops within our e-store. Designers are in control of their content, from how their collections are presented to adding different element such as video content, images, catwalk material, inspirational pictures and texts and so on.

At the beginning of the season, we will sit down with the designers and suggest to them the styles and ranges we love and think would work. The designers then select the styles they want to go with and produce them for us. We take care of the rest, such as the photography, warehousing, packaging, shipping and marketing. So instead of buying for wholesale we take a commission on retail, which means designers can earn up to twice as much as with the traditional wholesale model.

What makes Avenue 32 unique? The concept for one, but also the fact that Erin and I have a real passion for discovering new designers, hopefully makes for an exciting and different brand mix.

Does your personal style influence what you buy for the shop? Yes definitely, but it is also important to think about our customers when selecting. My personal taste is definitely not always the most commercial.

What is your one piece of fashion or beauty advice? My fashion advice would be to figure out what shapes and colours suit you and stick to it instead of going with every trend.

In terms of beauty advice, it would have to be hydrate and exercise!

What does a typical work day look like for you? There are no typical days, as we travel so much and there are always meetings and new developments when we are in the office.

What are your five essentials?

My Rag & Bone Wonderland skinny jeans

Isabel Marant ankle boots

Anything Peter Pilotto & Celine

My Balenciaga coat

My Blackberry

What are you top three pieces available in the shop right now?

The Philip Lim Pashley, Marios Schwab Black Cashmere Cut Out Jumper, Chalayan Pop Lime Tuxedo Jacket

Any beauty rituals? I have an amazing facialist who I see every two weeks if possible. I also have a manicure once a week and exercise at least 4 times a week. 

 Describe your perfect day? A summer day at my house in Portugal with my boyfriend, swimming, reading, relaxing, followed by dinner at my favourite restaurant, which makes the best giant red prawns in the world!

For more of Roberta's work, visit her website.

Adventures in Online Shopping: Steven Alan

L-R: TEN bralet and high waisted undies, Isabel Marant suede Dicker boots, Steven Alan cashmere beanie, Etiquette Clothiers Sailor Stripe socks, Steven Alan x Daryl K stretch silk blazer, Claire Vivier green Messenger Tote, Steven Alan plaid boyfriend shirt, Steven Alan reverse seam shirt, Acne Needle wet cash jeans

Why oh why isn't there a Steven Alan store in the UK?! From TEN undies to Acne jeans, they stock all my favourite brands for essentials and their shirts are to die for! Here are a few of my favourite things...

All available from Steven Alan

Interview: Giselle Farhat, My Chameleon

I've said it before but My Chameleon is one of my absolute favourite online shops. From Dieppa Restrepo loafers to Thomsen Paris's much coveted shirts, they stock a lot of cult classics and have introduced me to some new favourites such as Swedish label Hope. Director and buyer Giselle has a sharp instinct for buying cool yet timeless pieces as well as a great personal style. It's my pleasure to introduce her to you in my first interview of the new year.

Hi Giselle. Where are you and what are you doing right now? I’m laying on our studio couch, writing this.

Tell us about your past jobs. What lead you to your current position? For seven years I worked at a large Australian telco company as a commercial finance manager. Towards the end I knew that it wasn’t what I wanted to do long term and after spending a year preparing, I decided to launch ‘My Chameleon’.

Tell us a little bit about the concept for My Chameleon. I grew up with a mother who to this day is impeccably dressed. From a young age she was putting me in denims, silks – fabrics that would last, in designs she sewed herself. She instilled the importance of quality and cut, as opposed to looking at what other people were wearing. From that I was comfortable wearing what I liked and what suited me, regardless of what was “in fashion”. I think that’s what customers appreciate and expect of My Chameleon – quality, individuality and taste.

What makes My Chameleon unique? Indepenant and contemporary designers we have handpicked on the fundamentals of design, quality and cut. Many of the international labels are introduced to the Australian market by us and have been relatively unheard of in Australia - Dieppo Restrepo, Altewai Saome, Co|te, Line & Jo for instance. Our selection is well considered and presented to our audience in a way that reflects our level of care.

Our customer services stays personable and timely as our online presence continues to expand.

What do you look for in the designers you showcase? What first interests me about a designer is their perspective on themselves - this is reflective in the consistency of their campaigns /lookbooks, the models they use.. Mostly the overall aesthetic and taste that appeals to us. Then we research more deeply into the history, the importance of craftsmanship, fit and price point.

Who is the My Chameleon girl? The my chameleon woman is very much aware of her style, trends are not important to her. She simply admires things that are beautifully made.

Does your personal style influence what you buy for the shop? Definitely, I feel most confident when our selection is too my taste. Having said that there is a degree of movement and my assistant buyer challenges me.

What is your one piece of fashion or beauty advice? Be confident in your own style and make sure that your clothing’s aren’t wearing you. Invest in pieces that you truly love.

What does the typical work day look like for you? Start my day off with a run along the beach then into work to debrief on what will happen for the day and what we need to achieved. I love every aspect of the online process so whether it be working with our web developer, discussing press strategy with our digital media manager, researching potential designers or finalising product styling for the next shoot. Once I get home in the evening, I prepare for skype meetings with our internationals or get back to emails liaising with agents overseas for orders and the next season.

What are your 5 essentials? Blackberry, Laptop, Kevin Acouin Mascara, Sans lip balm, Narciso Rodriguez perfume.

If you could steal anyone's wardrobe - past or present - whose would it be and why? Carine Roitfeld, her style is ageless and she wears a lot of black which I love.

What are your top three pieces available in the shop right now? Magyar Sleeve Dress by Christopher Esber, Diamond Ear Cuff from Line & Jo and a lace lingerie set from Yasmine Eslami.

Any beauty rituals? I apply Rosehip oil with a few drops of vitamin C serum to my neck and declotege every night and use eye cream morning and night. Never is there a day I don’t apply sunscreen, I find Keihls Oil free 50+ the best, it is weightless. And one of my secrets (obviously no longer) is to have an eyelash tint, in blue black, once a month.

Describe your perfect day. Morning paddle at Bondi, coffee with my husband and check in with My Chameleon for the rest of the day.

What’s coming up next?  We are launching editorial extension to the store - it will feature shoots with guest photographers showcasing our designer pieces for the season.

New designers are coming on board from next January - Ostwald Helgason, Araks, Base Range, Dion Lee and Prism Sunglasses. 

See more of Giselle's work on her website

Adventures in Online Shopping: My Chameleon

L-R: Thomsen boyfriend blazer, Hope garcon trouser, Thomsen bird print slim shirt, Rachel Comey boatneck swing sweater, Dieppa Restrepo croc print tassel loafer, Aesa small pleat cuff, Illesteva frieda sunglasses, Estelle Deve neferu three ring set

Here's a sneak peak at my fantasy shopping list (if money were no object!) My Chameleon stock a wonderfully curated range of some of my all time favourite designers, from New York based Rachel Comey to Thomsen, a shirt designer I first discovered when living in Paris. Wouldn't this be the perfect weekend outfit? And don't even get me started on that boyfriend blazer!

All available from My Chameleon.

Interview: Hana Ryan Wilson, Craft & Culture

Craft and Culture is a wonderful e-commerce site that features a well curated selection of unique pieces from relatively unknown designers from across the globe. Founded by Hana Ryan Wilson & Jason Parker in 2011, the platform gives artisans the exposure they need to find their niche and sell their products to a wider audience. I caught up with Hana to discuss her career path and the inspiration behind her latest project.

Hi Hana. Tell us a bit about yourself. I'm 25 and a native of the Pacific Northwest. I'm from a small town on the coast but I've called Seattle home for 6 years now. I took one of those degrees in college that basically comes down to "reading, writing and having big thoughts," but that really is what I love (and what got me through school). The world of art objects and independent design is something I inherited from my friends who make things.

What about your past jobs? What lead you to your current position? I worked for newspapers while I was in school. I absolutely loved being a part of a newsroom. As the business director at Craft & Culture, I use my training as a journalist almost everyday. My parents run a small independent newspaper, one of the last ones in Washington State, so storytelling and writing has always been a big part of my life. I feel very lucky to have been brought up in that world and to have them as mentors.

For the past year and a half, I’ve also been working as the fashion editor for an online marketplace in Seattle learning the ins and outs of online marketing, producing photo shoots and curating content. That experience has been invaluable.

You founded Craft and Culture with Jason Parker. How did you both come up with the idea? I was doing modeling at the time and meeting lots of young designers who were trying to get their work out there. Jason and I noticed a missing link between these talents and the opportunities available to them. His background as an Art Director for major fashion websites and ad agencies made him the perfect partner. His idea to create a store featuring fiercely independent designers creating innovative products struck all the right chords with me.

Tell us a little bit about the concept for Craft and Culture. We want to celebrate, promote and support exciting and trend-setting emerging independent artisans while telling the stories of these makers. Knowing these people and understanding what they love, why they create and the intention that goes into each piece is such a huge part of what the product is. It reconnects the maker to the object.

What do you look for in the designers you showcase? A strong aesthetic, dedication to quality and innovative perspective. Also, everyone we work with is passionate about what they do. We love working with people who love what they do.

Craft and Culture seems to be a strong network of really inspiring people. How did you all meet? The first designers we began working with were people we knew and believed in in Seattle. After we launched we began connecting with other like-minded artists locally and internationally. It's been a natural but very active process of finding artists and artists finding us.

Which new brands are you most excited about? We are adding some very exciting designers for Fall including Hendrik.Lou knits out of Vancouver, Canada and insane architectural jewelry by Fathom & Form in San Francisco. On a global scale, I'm very excited about the emerging Nordic designers.

You also run a LEDGER magazine alongside the store. How did the first issue about?

What drew you to print instead of a digital platform? Ledger was the result of wanting to take a more editorial standpoint with the products and the designers. We wanted to delve into the culture of the makers and celebrate the individuals who are changing the game of craftsmanship. Also, I think it’s so important to put out work in the physical world. Coming from a newspaper background, I’m obsessed with print. And, luckily, it seems like other people are, too.

The magazine explores the culture of craftsmanship? Why was this an aspect that you thought would capture readers? Craftsmanship is such a base level human expression and to appreciate that is what we’re after. For us, it’s about celebration rather than consumerism.

Each designer is profiled on the site. Do you think it’s important that potential consumers understand the back-story rather than just the finished product? Absolutely. These are real people, real characters with beautiful, crazy, inspired lives and a base need to create. When you buy something that you are going to wear on your body or see in your home every day, it’s nice to know it came from an individual. Especially if it came from an individual you share something with.

What does the typical work day look like for you? I start early, walk my dog through the park and get a cup of coffee. When I get back to my computer I try to get all the hard stuff out of the way first. I spend my day time hours between Craft & Culture and producing photo shoots and fashion marketing for other clients. If I'm working on Craft & Culture, I'm happiest but it's also nice to get outside of that bubble and work on different projects. Taking frequent breaks from the computer and getting outside is key for me. Luckily my dog tells me when it's time to go outside.

What’s your favourite part of your job? Working with the artists and delving into the craft of living has inspired me to be more purposeful. To live purposefully, buy purposefully and pay more attention. I also love the emotional rewards of having built a company that is founded on the principle of treating people well.

What outside of work has inspired you recently? The great Pacific Northwest, the emerging talents in Seattle, my dog, yoga and the incredible women in my life.

What’s your favourite object? I love this question but I really had to think about it. For years, my boyfriend and I would go to this little cafe called Pettirosso. We went almost every single day. It was our favorite place in Seattle and we took our dog and became good friends with the baristas and the owner. When they shut their doors last year and began selling their equipment, we bought the window table where we always sat. I love that table.

What are your 5 essentials? My Moleskine notebook, a white button up shirt, a men's blazer, bobby-pins and a good leather bag.

Can you give us a hint as to what’s coming up next? A second edition of Ledger is coming in November with an international cast of forward-thinking designers and talent. And, of course, lots of wool, leather and metal for fall!

To find out more about Craft & Culture, visit their website.